Portland Guitar Co.

Designing and Building
Custom Handcrafted
Guitars, Ukuleles
and Accessories


Portland Guitar Co. | Portland Oregon | Contact Jay Dickinson-503.245.3276 | jay@portlandguitar.com


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Engineered Braces | Tilt Action Neck | Split Saddle Bridge | Split Saddle Nut

 

Portland Guitar Pretty Good Intonation (PGPG) System

Short Version | Introduction | Intonation Errors | Analysis | PG Approach | Comparisons | Conclusion


Finished Build

Small Jumbo Model For Joe E.

JM 1.5.28 Small Jumbo

16" Lower Bout
Figured Walnut Body
Sitka Spruce Top
Ebony Fretboard
User Adjustable Tilt Action Mahogany Neck, 26" Scale Length
Maple Binding, Bloodwood Striping

Page 5


(77) 26-Oct-2009
In this image I am showing a brace that will help prevent sides from splitting if the guitar is unduly stressed, i.e., if it is dropped.  This brace is a laminate of paduke and maple and is gently shaped into a suggestion of a Greek column.

(78) 26-Oct-2009
Here I am gluing the side straps into place.  I position them so they match up to the bottom braces.

(79) 26-Oct-2009
To help ensure that the top and back can be repeatedly positioned on the sides in the correct position I install these small buttons that fit into corresponding holes on the sides.

(80) 26-Oct-2009
Here I am marking the position of the braces on the back side of the top.

(81) 26-Oct-2009
The major X-braces have a channel cut into them so they can dovetail into each other.

(82) 26-Oct-2009
Here I am laying out the top braces to make sure everything will fit.

(83) 26-Oct-2009
I use the button and hole technique to position the major braces on the top.  

(84) 26-Oct-2009
Before I glue the braces on I cut out the top plate.  The excess pieces will be used for some of the reinforcing braces on the top.

(85) 26-Oct-2009
Here I am using my go-box to glue on the X-braces.

(86) 26-Oct-2009
And more braces are glued on.

(87) 26-Oct-2009
And in the end all of the braces are glued on.  Before the top is glued on to the sides I will go over the top and clean it up removing any excess glue and positioning marks.

(88) 26-Oct-2009
Here I am getting ready to glue the back onto the sides.

(89) 26-Oct-2009
The side is placed into its form and a bead of glue is applied to kerfing shelf.

(90) 26-Oct-2009
The back is place on the rim and the top flange applies pressure around the perimeter.

(91) 26-Oct-2009
A little bead of glue is squeezed out which I clean up before it sets.

(92) 26-Oct-2009
When the glue is dry and the assembly is removed from the form there is a lip of wood that will be routed off.

(93) 26-Oct-2009
Here I am routing off the excess.

(92) 26-Oct-2009
When the glue is dry and the assembly is removed from the form there is a lip of wood that will be routed off.

(93) 26-Oct-2009
Here I am routing off the excess.

(94) 26-Oct-2009
The back glued on to the sides.

(95) 26-Oct-2009
Here I am preparing to glue the top onto the sides.

(96) 26-Oct-2009
A close up picture of the top braces.

(97) 26-Oct-2009
A close up picture of the top braces.

(98) 26-Oct-2009
A close up picture of the top braces.

(99) 26-Oct-2009
A close up picture of the top braces.

(100) 26-Oct-2009
A close up picture of the top braces.

(101) 26-Oct-2009
A close up picture of the top braces.

(102) 26-Oct-2009
A close up picture of the rosette.

(103) 26-Oct-2009
And another.

(104) 26-Oct-2009
Just like gluing on the back I run a bead of glue around the rim.

(105) 26-Oct-2009
The top flange presses the top into place and a C clamp presses the top onto the heal block.

(106) 26-Oct-2009
The top comes out of the form with an excess lip.

(107) 26-Oct-2009
And I use a router to remove the excess.

(108) 26-Oct-2009
A picture of the assembled box.