Portland Guitar Co.

Designing and Building
Custom Handcrafted
Guitars, Ukuleles
and Accessories

Portland Guitar Co. | Portland Oregon | Contact Jay Dickinson-503.245.3276 | jay@portlandguitar.com

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Engineered Braces | Tilt Action Neck | Split Saddle Bridge | Split Saddle Nut


Portland Guitar Pretty Good Intonation (PGPG) System

Short Version | Introduction | Intonation Errors | Analysis | PG Approach | Comparisons | Conclusion

Finished Build

Small Jumbo Model For Joe E.

JM 1.5.28 Small Jumbo

16" Lower Bout
Figured Walnut Body
Sitka Spruce Top
Ebony Fretboard
User Adjustable Tilt Action Mahogany Neck, 26" Scale Length
Maple Binding, Bloodwood Striping

Page 10

(229) 23-Jan-2010
In this picture I am installing the black mop dots on the side of the neck.

(230) 23-Jan-2010
One more time I go over the whole guitar leveling out the surface and looking for anything that need attention..  

(231) 23-Jan-2010
In this picture I am using a filling compound to fill in all of the pours in the walnut.  I use a platten to force the compound into the pores and then I try to scape off the excess with out pulling the compound out of the pores.

(232) 23-Jan-2010
After the filler has set up I go over the guitar again with sandpaper to remove the excess filler and to look for anything else that needs attention.  I use a very bright light and high diopter pair of glasses so I can get a good look at the surface.

(233) 23-Jan-2010
These are the tool I will use to install the headstock rose.

(234) 23-Jan-2010
A look at the headstock after the rose has been installed.

(235) 23-Jan-2010
A close up of the rose.

(236) 23-Jan-2010
Finally into the paint booth.

(237) 23-Jan-2010
I am always happy with a spray gun in my hand.  In this process I spray on several coats of lacquer, sand it down level and then repeat the process until I am happy with the results.  The trick is to get enough lacquer on to protect the guitar's surface, provide enough material to accommodate the buffing process, and provide a bit of margin so future scratches can be buffed out, with out leaving any excess.  I.e., I want the finish thin, but not too thin.

(238) 23-Jan-2010
While the lacquer is curing I turn my attention to building the bridge.  I use this tool to rout the channel for the saddle.  

(239) 23-Jan-2010
This fixture lets me slide the router along a well defined path while controlling the depth of the cut.

(240) 23-Jan-2010
A picture of the finished channel.  This channel will hold the saddle quite snuggly.

(241) 23-Jan-2010
Now that I have the bridge blank defined I am adding some binding and purfling.

(242) 23-Jan-2010
A look at the bridge blank with the binding installed.

(243) 23-Jan-2010
The next operation matches the bottom of the bridge to the top of the guitar.  Remember the top is in the shape of a dome.  I place a sheet of sandpaper on the top and then run the bridge blank across it until the two surface match allowing a good bond to be made when the bridge is glued on to the top.

(244) 23-Jan-2010
Here I am shaping the bridge using a belt sander.

(245) 23-Jan-2010
And finally the bridge gets the holes for the bridge pins.

(246) 23-Jan-2010
The finished bridge on the top of the guitar.